Quinoa with farmer in Cachilaya, Bolivia

An interesting new paper by Andrew Ofstehage in the journal Agriculture and Human Values describes the current economy of quinoa (Chenopodium quinoa) in Bolivia, about which we have reported previously. Although it is occasionally difficult to cut through the social science jargon of the paper (at least for us humble agronomists), it is an excellent account of the options available to poor Bolivian smallholders for commercialising quinoa of different qualities in different marketing channels. The paper also explores the complex motivations behind farmers’ decisions to sell quinoa to different buyers, and it provides insights in the role and vital services of local intermediaries (contrary to the common stereotype of their exploitative role).

We found it interesting that although the traditional marketing of quinoa as an undifferentiated commodity continues to be the choice of producers of lower grade qualities, some farmers actively pursue strategies to position their quinoa in high-value market niches. So, for example, the farmers of Los Lipez, reported to take pride in local production methods that result in a particularly large grain and distinct product, “have created a denomination of origin (DO), a registered trademark to protect a geographically distinct and socially reproduced commodity, for quinua real de Lipez. This initiative encourages Lipeño farmers to sell their quinoa as Lipeña and prohibits outside farmers from doing so..”

Interestingly, the movement towards differentiation of Lipeña quinoa is largely spearheaded by a consortium of local organisations intending “to add value to local products and promote an alternative local economy based on the recognition of tradition and Lipeña identity through the promotion of products, development of new products, and the certification of products from Lipez”.

Yacon roots on sale in Cameron Highlands, Malaysia (Photo courtesy: Choo Kwong Yan, March 2012)

The pictured yacon roots (Smallanthus sonchifolius) were recently seen by our colleague Mr Choo Kwong Yan on sale in various outlets of locally grown vegetables in the Cameron Highlands in Peninsular Malaysia. By all accounts yacon is a new crop in Malaysia, unheard of until recently, and we have yet to identify the grower, and from where s/he has received the original planting material of this vegetatively propagated crop.

Most of the dry matter of yacon roots consists of oligo-fructose, and the information on display next to the roots fairly accurately describes its beneficial effects on gut heath, as revealed in a number of recent studies. Originally from the Andes, but largely unknown there and absent from Andean markets until the early years of this century, yacon has rebounded from oblivion and scientific neglect after its introduction to Japan in 1983, where yacon’s  chemical composition and hypoglycemic effects have been discovered.

In addition to perceived nutritional benefits, it is the crunchy and succulent texture of yacon that may have endeared it to Asian users. Within 15 years, yacon spread from Japan to China, Philippines, South Korea and Taiwan. The sighting of yacon in Malaysia suggests that the dispersal of this crop in Asia is in full swing and has now reached the Cameron highlands which –at an altitude of over 1200 masl- offer climatic conditions similar to those in the crop’s native range.

Yacon planting material is largely dispersed through informal seed systems. Unless there is proof to the contrary, we are rather confident to suspect that introductions across borders have likely been at odds with international best practices for germplasm movement, and with post-CBD thinking about national ownership and control of genetic resources. However, without the yacon development that has taken place in Asia, it is hard to see how the crop would have regained so much popularity in Peru in the last 10 years. Attribute discovery in Japan, although initially resented by Peruvian news media, eventually stimulated investment in research and value chains in Peru itself, and many farmer communities derive new income from an ancient crop plant they hardly used any longer before the current yacon boom. Thus the complex but real “access and benefit sharing” implicit in many informal crop disersals  in the past is still at work, a fact conveniently overlooked in the debates about “biopiracy”.

The case of yacon also quite nicely illustrates that minor crops are no exception to the interdependency of nations with regard to crop genetic resources, suggesting the inclusion of such species in multi-lateral access schemes. There is a large number of lesser known crops that have hugely benefited local populations by dispersal outside their native range and spill-over back into native areas in terms of new varieties or product technologies.

The Chinese name for yacon now in use in Malaysia can be translated as “Snow lotus fruit”. Prices in the Cameron highlands vary between 7 and 20 Ringgit per kg (US$ 2-7). Such a high price could suggest that demand outstrips supply, a situation commonly found in slowly propagating species in an emerging market.

Interestingly, the pictured roots show cracks as in market displays in the Andes. The roots are quite brittle, and easily break upon extraction from the soil. This limits shelf life and is a supply constraint that needs to be addressed in yacon improvement. Unfortunately, yacon very rarely sets seeds, and current varieties are most likely ancient Andean farmer cultivars.

The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) in close collaboration with Khon Kaen University, Thailand, and National Research Council Thailand (NRCT), is pleased to announce the convening of a Regional Symposium on “Promoting underutilised food resources for better nutrition” to be held in Khon Kaen, Thailand, 21-23 May 2012. The Symposium will present case studies presenting the wealth of knowledge in indigenous communities in diverse ecosystems, the richness of their food resources, the strengths of the local traditional food systems, and the circumstances of the nutrition transition in indigenous communities. It will present evidence on local and traditional food systems and central role to public health improvement, and required policies at local, national and international levels for protection of food environments to ensure food security and nutritional quality. Documentation of local/traditional knowledge of use of diversity in developing strategies to cope with specific situations and recommendations made available on how to enhance good practices through their blending with scientific findings. The Symposium will help to identify policy options to promote greater use of local food diversity addressed and recommended at national and international level; and proposals for concrete short and medium term measures for actions needed to support conservation and sustainable use of indigenous and traditional foods to improve nutrition. This event will serve as the basis for future dialogue, debate and information exchange and facilitate wider support for an international movement committed to the implementation of effective, sustainable and long-term food-based solutions to hunger and malnutrition. As part of preparatory work for symposium, papers to be presented at the Symposium and be part of a publication on “Indigenous and Traditional food systems of Asia and the Pacific” are now being solicited.

THEMES:

• “Wild” indigenous plants and animal origin collected from uncultivated land and forest (e.g. leafy plants, roots, berries, small rodents, and insects) and from aquatic environments (e.g. indigenous small fish, frogs and snails).
• Semi-domesticated indigenous plants and animals, for example gardening of indigenous plant species and culture of indigenous fish species in rice fields in Asia.
• Traditional cooking/preparation and preservation methods: a wide range of household level, small-scale cooking and processing methods applied to improve food properties such as fermentation, soaking, drying, smoking in particular of indigenous foods for enhancing nutritional value.
• Identification of new partnerships and areas of collaboration, particularly in the direction of advocacy, policy and public awareness, research and funding to support food systems that preserve and sustain diverse traditional food cultures in Asia

DEADLINES AND REQUIREMENTS:

Send all submissions in Microsoft Word format. FULL PAPER (including abstract, key words, conclusions, diagrams, references) up to 8 page paper. Please provide your name, affiliation, full mailing address, telephone / fax number and e-mail address. All submissions will be peer reviewed and edited by members of the Organizing Committee. Accepted papers will be published BEFORE THE CONFERENCE (both print and electronic format), that will be copyrighted and widely disseminated.

SUBMISSION OF FULL PAPERS DEADLINE: 1 April, 2012

CORRESPONDENCE ADDRESS: email hidden; JavaScript is required; email hidden; JavaScript is required;

Stuffed cucumbers are a delicacy, and if you have travelled in the Andes, you may have come across something even better, namely a dish made from the fruits of Cyclanthera pedata – also a cucurbit – which grow a big cavity wanting to be filled with other food stuffs as if to prove “intelligent design”. There is now much hype surrounding the supposedly “pharmacological effects” from swallowing capsules containing a flour made from the dried fruits, but we derive much greater pleasure from eating a well cooked “pepino de rellenar”, or caigua or achojcha as the fruit is known in mountainous areas of Colombia, Ecuador and Peru.

We have never seen this crop outside its native range, and so it was quite a surprise when our friend Dr Thimmaiah [email hidden; JavaScript is required], an agricultural specialist advising the Ministry of Agriculture in Bhutan, pointed out to us the popularity of Cyclanthera pedata in that country and neighbouring North-Eastern India and Nepal. Elderly informants in Bhutan remember this crop being cultivated by their forbears so it can’t be a recent introduction. It is now grown all over Bhutan, in kitchen gardens and for commercial purposes, at considerable altitude, particularly in the regions of Punaka (altitude 1000-1200 masl), Trashigang (2200-2300 masl), Chukka (2300-2600 masl), Paro (2400-2800 masl) and Bhumtang (2700-3400 masl).

The common names used in Bhutan for this plant include “slippery gourd”,  “olochoto” and “kichipoktho” (crow’s beak), “korila” (also used for bitter gourds) as well as “ajangkairu” and “carabanthu”. Dr Thimmaiah describes the plant as a vigorous annual climber, which grows up to 5-7 meters length. Propagation is by seeds. The plants are spaced at 1 by 1 meters and staked after the first leaves have appeared. In kitchen gardens the plant is allowed to creep on fences. The first fruits can be harvested in about 45 days after planting, and the plants bear fruits for several months. The plant also does well when cultivated in plastic greenhouses during winter months. Slippery gourds fetch a good price in the market. In the early season it is sold at about US$ 2 per kg, at peak season at about US$1 per kg.

In Bhutan the slippery gourd is cooked with local cheese and chillies. The fruit are cut in halves longitudinally and briefly boiled in salted water. Local cheese and chillies are put to the pan and cooked for another 5 minutes. This dish it is called ‘datsi’ or ‘olochoto datsi’.

The news will have gone around the world many times and reached the many aficionados to Lois at this point of time.

Lois, a great person with an incredible passion is no longer with us on mother earth since Thursday September 29.

For sure her work has left an important landmark and provides us all with an example on how things should be done – with rigor and especially with your heart!

We remember Lois with a smile and always willing to help and promote the vitamin A rich underutilised bananas from the Island of Pohnpei.

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